A full cord of wood costs $150 to $500, with most homeowners paying around $300. Hardwood runs $250 to $500 per cord; softwood runs $150 to $300. Specialty hardwoods like oak, hickory, and cherry can push past $600 in regions where supply is tight. The size you order matters as much as the type — a half cord runs $100 to $300, a face cord runs $75 to $200, and a quarter cord runs $50 to $125.
But the more useful question, and the one that gets people overcharged, is what you’re actually getting when someone delivers a “cord” to your driveway. The terms “cord,” “face cord,” “rick,” and “half cord” get used loosely by sellers, and the difference between them is significant. This guide breaks down what each measurement actually means, how to verify you got what you paid for, and which type of wood gives you the best heat for your money.
What a cord actually is
A full cord of wood is a legally defined volume: 128 cubic feet, stacked tightly. The standard arrangement is a stack 4 feet high, 4 feet deep, and 8 feet wide. Any other arrangement that produces 128 cubic feet of well-stacked wood also counts — the dimensions can vary, the volume can’t.
The U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology defines this in Handbook 130, and most states have adopted it as the legal standard for firewood sales. Canada has equivalent regulation. If a seller advertises “a cord,” that’s what they’re legally required to deliver.
Other terms aren’t legally standardized and create most of the confusion:
Face cord (also called a rick): A stack 4 feet high, 8 feet wide, but only as deep as the logs are long — typically 16 inches. About 42 cubic feet, or one-third of a full cord. Sometimes priced at one-third of a cord’s price; sometimes priced higher per cubic foot because handling cost is similar to a full cord.
Half cord: Half of a full cord — 64 cubic feet. A 4 × 4 × 4 foot stack.
Quarter cord: A quarter of a full cord — 32 cubic feet.
Bundle: What you buy at gas stations and grocery stores — typically 0.75 to 1 cubic foot, four to six small logs. Sold for $5 to $15.
Truckload, pickup load, “country cord”: All meaningless without specifying volume. A pickup truck holds roughly half a cord at most. If a seller offers “a truck load” without giving dimensions, ask for the cubic foot volume before paying.
The Canadian government has actually proposed eliminating “cord” entirely in favor of “stacked cubic metre” because the term has accumulated so much regional variation. Until that happens, the safe practice is to confirm dimensions in writing before delivery.
How to verify you actually got a cord
Most disputes between firewood buyers and sellers come down to volume. Here’s how to check.
When the wood arrives, ask the seller to stack it (some include this; some charge $20 to $80 extra). If you’re stacking yourself, set up the stack with logs aligned, parallel, and touching — what the legal definition calls “racked and well stowed.”
Measure the stack: length × height × depth, all in feet. Multiply the three numbers. If the result is 128 cubic feet (or close to it — within about 5%), you got a full cord. A stack measuring 4 ft × 4 ft × 8 ft, or 8 ft × 4 ft × 4 ft, or 16 ft × 4 ft × 2 ft all count.
Common shortfalls to watch for: a stack that’s “loosely thrown” rather than tightly stacked can hide 10 to 20% air space. A stack with logs running every which way (rather than parallel) takes up more room than the same wood properly stacked. A delivery that’s just dumped in your driveway without stacking is impossible to verify — insist on stacking, or stack it yourself before paying.
If you measure and come up short, document it with photos and call the seller. Reputable firewood vendors will adjust pricing or deliver more wood. Disputes that can’t be resolved with the seller can be reported to your state’s weights and measures office — firewood is regulated as a commodity in most states.
Hardwood vs. softwood: what you’re paying for
The price difference between hardwood and softwood reflects a real difference in heating value, not just preference.
Hardwood comes from deciduous trees that lose their leaves seasonally — oak, maple, hickory, ash, cherry, walnut, beech, birch. These woods are denser, burn longer, and produce more heat per cord. Standard pricing: $250 to $500 per cord, with premium varieties (white oak, hickory, black locust) reaching $400 to $600+ in high-demand regions.
Softwood comes from evergreen conifers — pine, spruce, fir, cedar, hemlock. Less dense, faster-burning, easier to ignite. Pricing: $150 to $300 per cord. Worth less per cord because you’ll need more of it to heat the same space.
The honest math comes from BTU output, not price alone. A cord of seasoned oak produces roughly 24 to 28 million BTU. A cord of seasoned pine produces roughly 14 to 17 million BTU. So a $400 cord of oak gives you 24 million BTU at $16.67 per million BTU. A $250 cord of pine gives you 15 million BTU at $16.67 per million BTU. The cost per heat unit ends up similar — softwood’s lower price reflects its lower output, not better value.
This matters for two reasons. First, hardwood is genuinely the better choice for primary winter heat — fewer trips outside, longer burn times overnight. Second, softwood has legitimate uses (kindling, shoulder-season fires, outdoor fire pits) where its faster burn and easier ignition are advantages.
For occasional fireplace use where the fire is for ambiance rather than heat, the wood type matters less than seasoning. For primary heat, hardwood is worth the premium.
Green, seasoned, and kiln-dried
The wood’s moisture content matters as much as the species. Burning wet wood is inefficient and creates creosote buildup in your chimney.
Green wood is freshly cut and contains 50% or more moisture. It can’t be burned efficiently — most of the energy goes into evaporating water rather than producing heat. Sells for 30 to 50% less than seasoned wood ($100 to $300 per cord). Worth buying only if you can wait 6 to 18 months for it to dry naturally before use.
Seasoned wood has been air-dried for 6 to 24 months and contains less than 20% moisture. The standard for firewood you actually plan to burn this season. Pricing: the standard $150 to $500 per cord ranges all assume seasoned wood unless otherwise specified.
Kiln-dried wood has been heat-dried in a kiln to 15% moisture or lower. Burns immediately and cleanly, no waiting. Costs 20 to 40% more than air-seasoned wood — roughly $300 to $700 per cord. The premium is worth it if you need wood now or are buying small quantities for a fireplace.
Signs of properly seasoned wood: cracks (called “checking”) radiating from the center of the log ends, bark that’s loose or falling off, weight noticeably lighter than freshly cut wood, a hollow sound when two pieces are knocked together. Wet wood is heavier, has tight bark, and produces a dull thud when struck.
A reasonable buyer’s strategy: buy green wood in spring or summer at the lower price, stack it for the next season, and buy small quantities of kiln-dried wood for any unexpected current-season needs. This bulk-and-supplement approach typically saves 20 to 30% over buying all your wood in fall.
How long a cord actually lasts
The “one cord lasts X weeks” question depends on five things: how often you burn, your fireplace or stove efficiency, your home’s size and insulation, your climate, and whether wood is your primary or secondary heat source.
Daily burning, primary heat, cold climate, average home: One cord lasts roughly 4 to 8 weeks. A typical cold-climate home using wood as primary heat goes through 3 to 6 cords per winter; very large or poorly insulated homes can use 8+.
Daily burning, supplemental heat, moderate climate: One cord lasts 6 to 12 weeks. Most homeowners with a wood stove or efficient fireplace insert in this category use 1.5 to 3 cords per season.
Occasional fires, ambiance only: One cord lasts an entire winter, sometimes longer. People who burn a few weekends a month often have firewood that lasts multiple seasons.
Open fireplace (low efficiency): Burns through wood roughly twice as fast as an EPA-certified wood stove or fireplace insert. Open fireplaces are also net-negative for whole-home heating in most situations because they pull more warm air up the chimney than they radiate into the room.
The variables that reduce wood consumption: better insulation, an efficient EPA-certified stove or insert (60 to 80% efficiency vs. 10 to 30% for an open fireplace), burning hardwood instead of softwood, and starting fires hot and letting them burn down rather than smoldering.
Delivery, stacking, and other costs
The base price is rarely the final price. Common add-ons:
Delivery: $25 to $100, or $2 to $3 per mile beyond a base radius. Most local sellers include delivery within 10 to 15 miles. Beyond that, expect mileage charges. Rural buyers in firewood-rich regions sometimes get free delivery; urban buyers usually pay.
Stacking: $20 to $80 per cord. Optional service. Some sellers stack for free; some charge; some don’t offer it. Worth paying for if you’re physically unable to stack a cord, which weighs 2,500 to 5,000 pounds.
Splitting: included or extra. Standard firewood is split into pieces 4 to 8 inches across. Some sellers charge extra for shorter (12-inch) or non-standard split sizes — adds roughly 10 to 20% to base price.
Mid-winter premium: 20 to 50% above off-season prices. Buying wood in November through February typically costs more than buying in May through August. Plan ahead if budget matters.
Saving money on firewood
The dollar-saving moves available to most buyers:
Buy in late spring or summer. Off-season pricing typically runs 20 to 30% below winter prices. Storage requirements: a covered area or tarped stack with airflow.
Buy green wood and season it yourself. Saves 30 to 50% on materials. Requires 6 to 18 months of advance planning and outdoor stacking space.
Source from local arborists or tree services. Companies that remove trees often have wood they need to dispose of. Some give it away; others sell it cheap. Calling local tree services in spring can produce free or very inexpensive cords if you can pick up and split it yourself.
Storm cleanup. After major storms, downed wood is sometimes free to anyone who’ll haul it. Check with your municipality and local landowners.
Cut your own. If you have access to private land with the owner’s permission, or to public lands that allow firewood permits (many National Forests do), you can save the entire cost of materials. Tools required: a chainsaw ($200 to $600), splitting maul or hydraulic splitter, transport vehicle. Worth it if you’ll do this for multiple seasons.
Buy by the truckload from a sawmill or logger. Some operations sell uncut log lengths cheaper than split firewood. You handle the cutting and splitting in exchange for the savings. Significantly cheaper per cord but requires equipment and time.
Storage and seasoning your own wood
If you buy green or want to keep seasoned wood dry through winter, storage matters.
The basic principles: keep it off the ground, keep the top covered from rain and snow, keep the sides open for airflow. Pallets work well as a base. A simple roof structure or tarp covering only the top (not the sides) lets the wood dry while staying protected.
Don’t stack firewood against your house — it traps moisture against siding and provides a path for termites and carpenter ants into your home. Keep firewood at least 5 to 10 feet from any structure.
Sun and airflow speed seasoning. A wood stack in shaded, still air takes longer to dry than the same stack in sunlight with breeze. A south-facing wall with the stack offset 10 feet is ideal.
Wood seasoning timeline: split firewood air-dries from 50% moisture to 20% moisture in roughly 6 to 18 months depending on species, climate, and stack conditions. Hardwoods take longer than softwoods. Splitting accelerates drying significantly — unsplit logs may need years to season properly.
Frequently asked questions
Will a cord of wood fit in a pickup truck?
Most pickup trucks hold one-third to one-half of a cord. A long-bed pickup with sideboards can sometimes hold a full cord but rarely safely. Plan on multiple trips or rent a flat-bed trailer for transport.
How many pieces of wood are in a cord?
Roughly 600 to 800 pieces of standard 16-inch firewood. Exact count varies with log diameter — large-diameter logs produce fewer pieces per cord; small-diameter logs produce more.
Is it cheaper to buy logs and split them yourself?
Yes, sometimes by 30 to 50%. The trade-off is labor and equipment. A hydraulic splitter rental runs $80 to $150 per day; purchase runs $1,000 to $3,000. Worth it if you’ll do this for multiple seasons.
What’s the best wood for fireplaces?
Locally sourced hardwood that’s been seasoned for at least 6 to 12 months. Oak, hickory, maple, ash, and cherry are commonly available and burn well. Avoid softwoods like pine for indoor use due to heavier creosote production.
Can I burn old construction wood or pallets?
Untreated solid wood is fine. Pressure-treated, painted, stained, or glued wood (plywood, MDF, particle board) releases toxic chemicals when burned and should never be used as firewood. Pallets are usually heat-treated rather than chemically treated and are typically safe, but check the stamp before burning.
How do I know if a seller is reputable?
Established local businesses with reviews, transparent pricing per cord (not per “load” or “truckful”), willingness to stack on delivery so you can verify volume, and acceptance of the legal cord definition. Avoid sellers who insist on cash-only payment, won’t provide a written receipt, or refuse to stack.
Should I buy a cord delivered or pick it up myself?
Pickup is cheaper if you have appropriate transport and time. Delivered is more practical for most homeowners, especially since a cord weighs 2,500 to 5,000 pounds. The $25 to $75 delivery fee is reasonable for the labor and equipment involved.
Is firewood subject to sales tax?
Varies by state. Some states exempt firewood entirely; others tax it at standard rates; others have agricultural exemptions for in-state-grown wood. Ask the seller what’s included in their quote.
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